From Brando to 'Bikercore': A Brief History of the Leather Jacket

Is there any piece of clothing more iconic than the leather jacket? It’s more than just an item you pull from your wardrobe - it's a statement. Favoured by both men and women, this wardrobe classic combines function with fashion.

We're charting the incredible history of the leather jacket, from its functional beginnings to its starring role on the silver screen and its enduring appeal in today's world.

Long before it was a symbol of cool, the leather jacket was a masterpiece of practicality. During the First World War, it was worn by German fighter pilots to protect them from the elements in open cockpits. With extremely cold temperatures at high altitudes, the warmth of what would become the "bomber jacket" in the late ‘30s and ‘40s was a very pragmatic option. Little did they know that this functional item would one day become a high-fashion piece!

After the war, the jacket’s rugged appeal found a new home on the ground with the rise of the motorcycle. Riders quickly realised that the same qualities that made leather perfect for pilots made it ideal for the open road, paving the way for what we now know as the classic biker style.

The true history of the biker jacket as we know it today was solidified in 1928 when Irving Schott designed the first motorcycle jacket with a zipper and sold it at a Harley-Davidson store in New York. He named it the "Perfecto" after his favourite type of cigar. Its genius was in its design: an iconic asymmetrical zip, a belted waist, and zippered cuffs to keep out the wind. It was a revolution in outerwear and became the blueprint for the classic biker jackets we know and love today.

Soon, other brilliant manufacturers followed suit. Buco's history tells a story of exceptional American craftsmanship, while Brimaco's history is another chapter in this rugged, built-to-last style. These pioneers answered the question of how a leather jacket is made with tough materials and a design built for adventure.

By the 1950s, Hollywood and the "greaser" subculture embraced the leather jacket, creating the iconic “bad-boy” image. While the movie Grease (set in the late 1950s) perfectly captured this, it was Marlon Brando in The Wild One (1953) who cemented the leather jacket as the uniform of the rebel.

Hollywood had lit the fuse, and rock 'n' roll fanned the flames. Legends like Elvis Presley and even stars like Jimmy Stewart in the film Night Passage (1957) further popularised this now-iconic jacket. It became the unofficial uniform of rock and roll, a look as tough and exciting as the music itself, and a remarkable piece in any biker rocker style.

As the decades rolled on, countless subcultures adopted and re-imagined the leather jacket. David Bowie sported one for his Heroes album cover in 1977, and rock legend Joan Jett rocked her way through the '80s in a leather jacket with The Blackhearts band! The punk movement saw bands like The Ramones customising their jackets with studs and paint, a rebellious spirit we explore in our guide to edgy style.

By the 1980s, the jacket had crossed over into the pop mainstream. Michael Jackson wore a red leather jacket for the Thriller music video, proving its universal appeal. At the same time, high-fashion designers began to feature it on the catwalk, solidifying its journey from practical workwear to a must-have fashion staple.

A quality leather jacket is a friend for life, and here’s how to spot a good one. The first thing you’ll notice is that fabulous, authentic smell of leather – it’s not something that can be faked! 

When you run your hand across the surface, it should feel smooth and buttery. The highest-quality leather will also show natural, grain-like marks, which speak volumes about its authenticity. Of course, it’s always a great idea to check the label for the materials it’s made from.

Today, the leather jacket is more versatile than ever. The recent rise of the ‘bikercore’ look is just the latest chapter in its long history. It’s a fantastic piece for creating cool autumn rock-chic styles and symbolises individuality that can be styled from grungy to chic. 

There are so many remarkable ways to style a leather jacket. For the gents, we even have a guide on how a man should style a leather jacket at any age.